This channel is all about Fashion I make videos about Fashion education, Fashion Design, Pattern making, sewing, marketing, brands, Fashion shows and much more If you are interested in Fashion consider subscribing Hi everyone, welcome to a new episode In this episode i will take you through 2 important terms in pattern making the first term is “Ease Allowance” so, what ease allowance means.. simply, it’s the difference between the body size and the clothes size usually we should take exact body measurements preferably with the least amount of clothes on. to make sure that the measurements is true but to ensure that the pattern fits perfectly, we need to adjust these measurements In the Italian pattern, ease allowance is determined according to 3 main factors 1- garment styline 2- Garment degree 3- Fabric thickness lets go through each of them in more details 1- garment styleline In general, a garment line would usually be one of four: 1-simple this usually has straight lines from shoulders to hem like this simple t-shirt for example 2- Soft The soft line follows the shape of the body for example: a dress or blouse with darts. and here we need to use a pattern with darts to highlight and contour the body curves 3- Tight The tight line, hugs the body as a second layer of skin for example: underwear 4- loose loose lines are not related to body shape and will not follow body lines. The second factor that we take in consideration while determining ease allowance is Garment Degree it means the order which closes are worn on body so, the first thing touching skin is degree Zero followed by the 1st , then 2nd and so on… lets talk about each degree and give examples Degree Zero: garments which are worn directly on the skin, such as underwear and swimming suits then, 1st degree: garments worn over underwear. such as, t-shirts, dresses, blouses..etc 2nd degree: garments worn over the 1st degree clothes such as: vests or suit jackets 3rd degree: outerwear such as: jackets, light coats 4th Degree: last layer of clothes such as: heavy coats with thick lining Third Factor is : Fabric Thickness we should take in consideration the fabric type, thickness and even the number of layers used. for example a garment with a lining or fillings is not the same as a silk blouse so, all these 3 factors should be considered by the designer before drafting the pattern for any design generally speaking, Ease allowance usually range between -8 and 18 cm so, you can choose to add or subtract from the original body measurements according to the 3 factors that we mentioned before for instance, if i am drafting a pattern for a swimming suit using thin stretchy fabric so i can choose to subtract 8 cm from the bodice. as i need it to be fully tight following all the body curves taking in consideration the stretchiness of the fabric as well another example: if i am making a coat with fur lining i can add up to 18cm to the whole bodice in order to ensure perfect fit considering the number of layers as well as the thickness of the fur in addition to the garment degree which is degree 4 in this example. This schedule shows an estimate of ease allowance suggested for each body measurement according to the garment degree. we can also see here that ease allowance is always added to circumferences to add comfort while moving and will never be added to lengths. so we add it to bust, waist, hip, arms..etc also, ease allowance must be considered during drafting the pattern and added to the measurements not at the end. although we have a wide range from -8 to 18 cm, in most simple garments specially as a beginner you will usually add 8 to 12 cm but later on as you develop your skills and start to design more complex garments, you will find this schedule highly important. as we mentioned before, we usually draw the pattern for 1/4 of the body , so we will be dividing the ease allowance value over 4 for example: if i choose to add 8 cm ease allowance to a pattern, this means 8/4=2 so, i will be adding 2 cm to each circumference in every pattern. in some models, where both sides are not symetric, we draw full front or full back in such instance, we will be adding 4 cm to each circumference The second term we will discuss in this video is Seam Allowance or sewing allowance i wanted to mention both here and the difference between them so you will not be confused seam allowance is another value that we add to the pattern but AFTER we totally finish drafting. and this is used to allow enough space for sewing because if we cut the pattern on the edges and start sewing we will end up with wrong fitting we can’t also sew on the edges, we need to have considerable amount of fabric inside the garment to ensure durability it usually ranges between 0.5 to 4 cm we should also choose the right value according to the design, fabric thickness and the number of layers That’s all for today, hope you enjoyed the video you can find a link in the description box to my website which you can use to download the schedule. Next episode we will start drafting the basic bodice without darts step by step, don’t miss it Thank you for watching, see u